Whenever foodies start waxing ultimato about famous, trend-setting restaurants…I feel confused…principally because I know that said foodies, in some cases at least, haven’t been to those restaurants. Sure, they’re up on the ridiculous “World’s Top Fifty” San Pellegrino ranking (to which I used to contribute, even though I’d been to maybe 15 restaurants on the list). They’ve been checking out Michelin, of course…a publication that has shown more cojones in recent years…but not more than a capon’s worth. And they have skinny-dipped in the Pierian spring of food knowledge, about which Alexander Pope would have warned “a little learning is a dangerous thing. Don’t fail to slurp up and chow down,” iambic pentameter be damned.