1993 Weingut Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Altärchen, Riesling Kabinett Trocken

1993 Weingut Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Altärchen, Riesling Kabinett Trocken 787 770 David Rosengarten

wine for the weekend

“The weekend? That’s five days away!” PRECISELY! Every Monday from now on I’ll be offering you in this space one of the amazing, food-loving wines I’ve chosen to import (after significant globe-scouring)!
The wine will take a few days to arrive at your house—so order now, and next weekend’s parties are set! Please note: I will also continue to recommend great wines to you that are not my imports…every Wednesday, right here, on WINE WEDNESDAY!

 

1993 Weingut Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Altärchen, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel ($38)

93 Milz RieslingThere are three elements of this phenomenal wine that should drive oeno-non-conformists wild!

First of all, though the wine is from the Mosel region (my favorite German area in general for zingily crisp white wines), it is not from the most famous micro-spot known as the Middle Mosel, with its famous bends, and the celebrated wine towns of Bernkastel, Urzig, Wehlen, etc. I’d be happy to put a bumper sticker on my BMW (if I had a BMW) saying “I ❤ MIDDLE MOSEL!”

However, I discovered a few years back that there is much more to ❤︎ in the Mosel region, (especially if you’ve got the right producer!).

You want bends? At the town of Trittenheim, about 15 miles southwest of Bernkastel, the Mosel takes its most dramatic bend of all, creating an awe-inspiring tongue of land that is surrounded by the swiftly-flowing river. Add the famous steep slopes along the Mosel that carry the Riesling grapes, and you’ve got a long-time profit center for Kodak (now you don’t even have to worry about film!).

mosel mapBut there’s more: there’s the winery of Milz Lauentiushof, nestled in a small village near the river. The oldest records of Riesling planting in all of Germany are in Trittenheim, and the winery Milz (often called by its shortened name) has been growing wine since 1520! The branch of the family that runs it today is hyper-proud of their history, and hyper-eager to ensure smooth continuity into the future. Well, one thing never changes: Milz’s vineyards are perfect Mosel slate…and…the steepness of the Milz slopes is at an average of 90%…a gorgeous way to insure great drainage during rains, and to pick up extra warmth in the fall.

And then there’s the third element, and maybe the most important: because this winery goes back over 500 years—it is not so hard to find older wines in their cellars! Me…I’m a FREAK for well-aged Riesling. After it sheds the wild peachy fruit of youth, it “gets back to the soil,” evolving an ever-greater layer of minerality and complexity. I always say, “if I want fruit, I’ll drink grape juice!” It is the soil expression in wine that seduces me above all—but, across the globe, it ain’t so easy to find.

So we’re bringing in this dry 1993 (over 20 years old!) so you can know the joy of an aged German Riesling. Light yellow-straw, even a fleck of green—amazing at this age! Gorgeous nose combining petrol, a touch of honey, a touch of waxy white Bordeaux character, and an evolving element of lime leaf. Light, totally dry, and evanescent on the palate, with great flavor emanating from wispy texture. Lots of energy and acidity in finish. Tremendous wine for food, bringing compatibility to most things, and the special complexity of age to full-flavored foods.

There’s no more to replace it with once we sell through…so please put it on your spring wine shopping list today!

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