2011 Westwind Old Vine Zinfandel, Jessie’s Grove Winery, Lodi, California ($32)
Once upon a time, back in my reckless vino days, I drank big-ass Zinfandel, even looked forward to tastings of Zinfandel over 15% alcohol. I was young and strong, so that’s how I wanted my wine. One seeks what one is, I suppose: young and strong don’t really do it for me any longer (metaphor stops here, as we veer dangerously into the lane of autobiography!). Nevertheless, having tasted some excellent non-Zin wines a few months back from the Lodi appellation in northern California, I just sat down this week to a tasting of Lodi Zinfandels (the area’s historic specialty) with alcohol contents north and way north of 15%. The wines, for the most part, engendered respect—though, as I expected, they’re not for me. There was one important exception, however: this wine, made from 73-year-old vines. It is that rare Zin that simultaneously inspires nostalgia…AND inspires thoughts of current drinking! In the glass, it is a beautiful color: a luminous purple-garnet, but not scarily dark, it has the hue and depth of good young Bordeaux. The nose offers up a fascinating combo of deep purply fruit, along with something slightly suggestive of leather and tobacco. No alcohol on the nose, and nicely covered up on the palate by abundant fruit (others in this tasting didn’t fare so well in the alcohol sweepstakes). Sweet up front, but not too sweet. Moves into a dry middle palate, then a refreshing finish with good acid and minimal tannin.
Wine4Food
If you’re looking for weight on your palate…but not ponderous weight…this wine could be for you. Especially if you serve it with crusty BBQ or grilled meat, touched with a little sweet BBQ sauce.
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