It is the time of year to start popping bottles! And most of those will be in the form of something bubbly, the upper tier of which is, of course, Champagne. This nectar of the gods rightly earned its exclusive status years ago and is still the go-to drink for any celebration. Yet, beyond its characteristic golden color and effervescence, most people don’t actually know what grapes Champagne is made from, how it became The Drink, or even that you should drink it on nights other than New Year’s Eve.
The story begins in a little French region north of Burgundy, about an hour east of Paris. All “real” Champagne must come from the Champagne region of France. (Yes, there are California “champagnes” but according to the French, they’re not the real deal.) The area’s climate and soil are perfect for growing wine grapes and vineyards have been located there for over 2,000 years. As the years progressed, a city close by, Reims (pronounced r-ANCE), became one of the most important in French history. For over 800 years, French monarchs were coronated in Reims cathedral, but celebrations definitely did not include the faulty effervescent “Devil’s wine” that could cause bottles to explode. In the 1600s, a certain Benedictine monk named Dom Perignon discovered ways to properly handle the fermentation, corking, and bottling of this “Devil’s wine.” Quickly, bottles of sparkling wine from Champagne quickly became synonymous with France and the classy French culture everyone still wants to emulate.
The wine itself is almost always made from the juice of Chardonnay grapes mixed with the juice from Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes (there are some exceptions we’ll get to in a minute) and has to be made in the incredibly regimented méthode classique or méthode traditionnelle. The wine’s first fermentation happens in a barrel, while the second occurs right inside the very same bottle you are sold. Though before filling the bottle, yeast, its necessary nutrients, and sugar are added. As the yeast eats the sugar and forms the bubbles, it creates organic matter called lees. The lees are carefully manipulated towards the bottle’s stem by keeping it tilted downward and frequently rotating. The final process, called disgorging, starts by freezing the bottle and the lees, forcing it to out the stem. These last few steps to remove the lees are actually the invention of a certain widow, Madame Clicquot aka Veuve Clicquot.
All of this production leads to a very tasty wine, and one that can be aged. Younger Champagnes, the ones typically found at your wine shop, will have fruit and floral notes: tropical citrus and white flower from the Chardonnay; stone fruit and apple flavors from the Pinot Meunier; and tart dark berries and rose from the Pinot Noir. You’ll notice your regular bottle of Brut most likely doesn’t have a vintage because Champagne houses create signature master blends each year. If yours does have a vintage, it’s a wine that can be or has been, aged. As it gets older, the flavors will turn more toasty and biscuity with caramel, honey or nutty notes. Labels to look out for, besides the famous Dom Perignon and Veuve Clicquot, are Piper-Heidsieck, Bollinger, Tattinger, Perrier-Jouët, Pommery, and Moët & Chandon. When on a budget, Mumm, Gosset, and Laurent-Perrier are good bets.
Sometimes, you’ll come across other terms on the label. ‘Blanc de Blancs’ means the wine is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. Adversely, ‘Blanc de Noirs’ translates to wine completely made from the red-skinned Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier grapes. ‘Brut’ is your quintessential dry Champagne, but it can go drier (‘Extra Brut’) or sweeter (‘Dry,’ ‘Demi-Sec,’ or ‘Doux’). ‘Nature’ doesn’t have any extra sugar added after the disgorgement, while ‘Cuvée’ represents the wine made from best juice.
When pairing, you’ll want to stick to light and fresh appetizers, utilizing the wine as an aperitif. That’s why you’ll see it during cocktail hour with its smoked salmon and caviar canapés, and pigs in a blanket. Once you get to your main courses, you’ll want to try Champagne with lightly seasoned fried foods such as fried chicken. Trust us on the fried chicken pairing. Dessert gets even trickier. Go with fruit tarts, especially if there are berries or apples involved. And if you have any leftover the next day (and didn’t use a fancy stopper to keep in the bubbles), it makes the perfect wine for cooking with, especially into something comforting like potato-leek soup.
