2013 Borra Vineyards Nuvola, Artist Series Limited Edition, Lodi, California ($19)
Back in May, I tasted a bunch of Zinfandels made in one of California’s most historic Zinfandel regions: Lodi. I was expecting bombardier wines…but I was surprised by how supple and delicious they were, especially the Zin from Jessie’s Grove. And now…the Lodi surprises keep on coming! This Nuvola, from Lodi, shows that white wines from this oft-neglected region can also be balanced and elegant! Who’da thunk it? But then comes the next shocker: this graceful white is 100% Gewurztraminer! Gewurz…which usually veers towards high alcohol and bitterness. But not this baby! In fact, this is one of the most surprising Gewurzes I’ve ever tasted. You wouldn’t know it’s a Gewurz from anything on the nose…or even on the palate. There’s no “spice,” no lychees, no rose. And yet…it’s not your typical hot-weather California fruit bomb either! The nose shows a lovely, discreet, grape-skin type of fruitiness, mixed in with some stony scents. But the exotic varietal that underlies it must be adding a touch of mystery. The palate is also well-behaved, just a nudge off-dry, with racy acidity, and subtle notes echoing the notes on the nose. A lovely mouthful of California fruit minus the pain. Bravo Lodi!
Wine4Food
The Nuvola’s not quite sleek enough to be an oyster wine, but, irony of ironies—ironic, since Gewurz is always recommended for Asian food, usually incorrectly—I’d be happy to pour this with any Chinese or Thai dish that shows the tiniest whisper of sweetness.
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