The renovated Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza-Athenée in Paris…how many stars on Monday???
OMG…did I step into something MAJOR this weekend on my visit to Paris!
As you may know, Alain Ducasse has been the executive chef of the Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza-Athenée for many years, and has proudly held three Michelin stars there for the whole time.
For much of 2013, and half of 2014, the Plaza-Athenéee was closed for renovation. When they re-opened in August 2014, they asked Alain to return with something truly original, truly groundbreaking.
I was there today for lunch. Did he ever. I was WOWED.
But here’s the problem: Michelin has already told the Plaza-Athenée that they’re upset about some of the departures from classicism…particularly in the décor. No tablecloths is tough for them in a three-star restaurant!
So Alain, the entire staff, the entire Dorchester Collection company await the arrival on THIS MONDAY…of the new Michelin guide to France. Will Restaurant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza-Athenée retain the three?…Or will it be slashed down to two?
IMHO…they should get four! (Impossible, of course). You know me…I don’t like creative food…but this was one of the greatest creative meals in memory…one if the few I can remember that makes me say, “The chef is pointing the way to the future here!”
I will explain further in a longer piece…but for now…you need to know about Alain’s focus on very exotic ingredients…
Caviar de citron
…on compositions of insane conceptual harmony (caviar-like lentils du puy with a smoked haddock jelly, Normandy cream with pressed caviar, and pancakes made from buckwheat and lentils)…
The pancake for the caviar-lentil dish, with tiny holes looking like caviar, against the famous backdrop of the Plaza-Athenée’s awnings
…on incredible technical accomplishments that look simple…
A rouget filet with its scales…which have been coaxed into highly edible crunchiness!
Come on, Michelin. Do the right thing. Tablecloths and lace are not the future of French dining…re-defining brilliance is!
