Rosengarten On Forbes: Pass The Mustard! And Pass It From Germany!

As seen on Forbes.com…

Ah, we Americans…we are always in thrall to what you might call “brands.” For example…when Chardonnay-based wine from France became popular in the 1970s…everyone at the fern bar was asking for Pouilly-Fuissé (despite better wines and better values in other appellations). In the modern boom of Southeast Asian bottled chili sauces…the only one that matters is “sriracha,” and only one sriracha at that, the Huy Fong “rooster” brand from California…despite better srirachas, and better Southeast Asian chili sauces, in the market.

Mustard is a particularly interesting case of the brandie-pandies. Yes, of course, we have a huge category leader, if you’re going all-out American: French’s, which doesn’t get respect from “foodie” types.

However, if you ratchet up the refinement quotient, and look to Europe for your yellow squeeze…there’s only one type of mustard that gets attention: Dijon, of course.

Now, I’m not here to rap Dijon mustard. In fact, I love Dijon mustard, particularly when it’s “strong,” or “hot,” or “extra.” Dijon mustard—usually medium-yellow and smooth—has one of the best real mustard tastes in the whole world. There’s tremendous variation in quality, of course, among the brands on American shelves, but if you can find yourself the outstanding Edmond Fallot, Burgundy Mustard (Moutarde de Bourgogne, IGP), you’re in business.

But there I go, touting a mustard from Dijon (Fallot is actually in nearby Beaune) when I know full well that Dijon’s not the only game in town.

And this is my point.

The other game—a really important game, but practically unknown to Americans!—is Dusseldorf mustard. That’s right: mustard from Dusseldorf, Germany, a large, lively city not far from the heart of German wine country (just as Dijon is next door to Burgundy wine country). Dusseldorf mustard has a reputation throughout Europe that is as powerful as the reputation of Dijon mustard…we just haven’t noticed, here in the U. S. of A.

My job today is to make you notice.

Wonderful Dijon-like Mustard from Germany

Basics first. According to the consortium of Dusseldorf mustard producers, the product “consists exclusively of ground brown and yellow mustard seeds, unfiltered spirit vinegar produced in Dusseldorf, the special lime and mineral rich water of Dusseldorf, salt, sugar and spices.” The result is a creamy mustard, which can be quite hot, with a special tang often described by aficionados as “malty.”

In fact, there are those who prefer Dusseldorf mustard to Dijon mustard. The two mustards are very similar in style, so it often comes down to “which” producer. But generally speaking, the Dusseldorfs are a touch darker than the Dijons, which seems to line up with an even deeper “mustardy” flavor that they often have. Many chefs note that when you cook with Dusseldorf mustard, the mustard flavor comes through more strongly—often noting that Dijon mustard doesn’t stand up to other ingredients as prominently.

This all came to mind last week when I was shopping for a TV shoot at the Wall Street Journal’s daily mid-day internet show, “Lunch Break.” The spot was on lucky foods for New Year’s Eve, and I included sausages with sauerkraut: pork is “lucky,” and cabbage is “lucky.” (You can see the spot by clicking here: http://on.wsj.com/1NRUUOT)

To get the sausages, I went to my favorite German deli in Manhattan, Schaller & Weber (1654 Second Ave), pretty much the only Germanic store left in the Upper East Side neighborhood called Yorkville, an area that used to be heavily Central European. While standing at the meat counter, my eye fell on jars of mustard—Dusseldorf mustard, of course! And not only were they jars of Dusseldorf mustard—they were Löwensenf “Extra,” the very brand that captivated me last time I was in Dusseldorf! It’s not a tiny artisanal brand—but for mainstream mustard, man is it good! And a perfect introduction for anyone needing a Dusseldorf mustard intro!