For those who love a good bargain…and for those who love good Chinese food…how about mixing a little insanity into this equation? Like the best Chinese dumplings in New York for the most insanely low prices?
Eldridge Street, in all its Sunday-morning glory
First things first. To know this insanity, you have to trek down to Eldridge Street, in a non-central part of Manhattan’s Chinatown. But it ain’t hard at all. You take the B train or the D train to the Grand Street. station. Walk up the stairs. You’ll be on Chrystie Street Now, looking east across the street from the station, there’s a long slip of a park/playground, running south to north (parallel with Chrystie). Can’t miss it. Cross Chrystie Street, and walk through the park, which is bordered on the east side by Forsyth St. When you go through the park (30 seconds?) you’ll be on Forsyth Street The dumplings are nigh! Keep going, one block further east…and you have hit Eldridge Street, my brother my sister! You’ll be at Eldridge and Grand, just a short block south of Eldridge and Broome…the heart of Dumpling World!
In case my words let you down, here’s a link to a map of this little area: http://goo.gl/BCjaK
And now…why would you want to do this?
Oh baby. Frankly, I don’t know for how long small storefronts have been making cheap dumplings on Eldridge Street; a little internet research brought me back almost ten years to 2003 (though the tradition may be older than that), and I could see that by 2008 everyone was buzzing about the five-for-a-dollar dumplings on Eldridge Street.
The place that was driving everyone crazy some years ago was The Dumpling House…which I discovered no longer exists under this name. I also discovered that a newcomer, Panda Dumpling House, got a heckuva lot of press this year due to its more “upscale” design elements. A new day dawns for Eldridge Street? Yeah…but is it still five for a buck?
Obviously, I had to get me to Eldridge to check out the up-to-date developments.
The entrance to the new Panda Dumpling House
The “upscale” interior of Panda Dumpling House
I started with the new Panda Dumpling House; in fact I went back to it twice. On my first visit I could see that “upscale” is relative: the place is a little bigger and a little less chaotic than its brethren. The biggest change: finding a table or counter space is a little easier here! But don’t break out your best suit as you prepare to come…
As for the dumplings…
First of all, in case you don’t know…the “dumplings” everyone speaks of on Eldridge are pork dumplings, usually with chive, fried. There are lots of other dumplings available. There are even other cheap treats available at all the dumpling houses (varies by house). But the core of it all is the fried pork dumpling, which insiders will identify as “Beijing-style” dumplings.
Panda Dumpling House is a good place to get your orientation…because the dumpling filling here is just as it oughta be…
The basic 5-for-$1 pork and chive dumpling at Panda Dumpling House
Note the cut of the pork: coarse, for lots of texture in your mouth. The Eldridge Street dumpling is unlike the fried pork dumplings you get in most Chinese restaurants elsewhere in the city…where finely ground pork rules! I love the coarser grind, the fattier flavor, and the lovely counterpoint provided by the chive.
And now the Panda bad news.
One of the most important elements in the world of dumplingry is: are the dumplings freshly cooked? On my first visit to Panda Dumpling House, they were cooked when I ordered them. Really good. On my follow-up visit, on a slightly busier day…they were being held over heat…
The held dumplings being picked up by server for a plate
If the dumplings on the first visit were a 9…these were a 6…more rubbery, doughy, less vibrant in flavor. Timing makes all the difference!
By the way, as for alternatives, the Chinese pancakes at Panda Dumpling House…ranging in price from one to two dollars…are good here, and, from what I’ve seen, always freshly cooked.
The Chinese Pancake with Scallions ($1.50) at Panda Dumpling House
On to my next fave up the scale: Prosperity Dumpling House.
The line at Prosperity
You can see above how much narrower Prosperity is, more cramped. But…the big news is…on two visits, despite the crush, dumplings were being freshly fried!
At Prosperity, a big batch of fried dumplings just starting to turn golden
And the results?
The excellent fried dumplings at Prosperity
As you can see, a filling very close to the Panda filling (that’s normal)…but the skin is better here, with more crunch, and a livelier chew. Prosperity also offers a boiled dumpling here that is excellent…
The boiled dumpling at Prosperity
…which has the lovely bounce of good Italian pasta! (These dumplings are extraordinarily expensive…8 for $2!)
Lastly, in the pecking order of fried dumplings…I found top-flight bliss at Vanessa’s!
The exterior of Vanessa’s
Vanessa’s is the new name of what used to be “The Dumpling House”…the original place that caused the five-for-a-buck craze. So it has tradition on its side. But it also has great dumplings.
Now, if you’re gonna love Vanessa’s, you have to deal right away with two facts of life:
1) The fried dumplings are now FOUR for a dollar…
Four dumplings for a dollar at Vanessa’s
2) The dumplings have a finer grind—which, in this meaty-lusty case, makes them no less delicious.
The finer grind of Vanessa’s dumplings
HOWEVER:
1) The dumplings are always freshly cooked
2) The skins are outrageously crispy
3) The place, though smaller than Panda, has ample communal tables and chairs…with a feel that’s a little more hipster Brooklyn than bargain-basement Chinatown.
Also, at Vanessa’s, the other possibilities are very enticing! When I visited, almost every table had a Sesame Pancake Sandwich ($1 to $2.50)…including mine, ultimately…which I loved. What a great lunch for pennies!
The Sesame Pancake with Peking Duck at Vanessa’s ($2.50)
But now the biggest confession of all. My favorite dumplings on the two recent visits were not in the Beijing-fried tradition.
As you saunter south on Eldridge, towards the Manhattan Bridge, the street transitions to electronics stores…and Fuzouhese restaurants!…with a great tradition of soups, pulled noodles, fish balls…and steamed dumplings.
The first place at which you notice the change is Super Taste…a wonderful little restaurant that you must visit soon!!!
Super Taste begins the Fuzouhese end of Eldridge St.
Of course I pondered long and hard…
Menu on the wall at Super Taste
…and came up, for starters, with the roast duck and hand-pulled noodle soup…
Roast duck and hand-pulled noodle soup at Super Taste
…which was spectacular! But little did I know that the best dumplings of all…steamed!…were waiting for me!
Steamed dumplings at Super Taste…at the nosebleed price of SIX for $3!
The captivating factors:
1) Gossamer, see-through skin
2) Lots of dark veggie-and-pork goodness inside
3) By far the juiciest dumplings of the day
So I have a proposal. Go to Eldridge Street…sample your classic fried dumplings at their insane prices…then leave room for a finishing plate of steamed dumplings (and maybe soup!) at Super Taste. If you go with another person, I’d say you could do a decent sampling…and get really full…for $6 all together! $8 if you push it!
Eldridge Street, the street of dumpling dreams, is so dumpling-oriented…even the litter participates. Here’s an image I came upon while leaving the area…
I wasn’t tempted. At one buck for five, the dumplings on a plate don’t cost much more than this!
Photos Via: David Rosengarten